One day in Belgrade. Kneza Mihaila street and Skadarlija

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

If you are not interested in visiting Belgrade Fortress or if you want to see main attractions of Serbia’s capital in one day, then after a short version of Belgrade Fortress experience you could check out two most popular streets of the city – Kneza Mihaila and Skadarlija.

Begining of Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

Begining of Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

Milan Rakić - Serbian poet, Belgrade

Milan Rakić – Serbian poet, Belgrade

Kneza Mihaila street was named after prince of Serbia – Mihailo Obrenović III. It’s one of the rare streets in Belgrade that never changed its name. Most buildings of the one-kilometer long street were built in the 19th century.

In 1979 Kneza Mihaila became a part of Cultural and Historical Units of Great Importance, and as such is also protected by law as one of the oldest and most valuable landmarks of the city.

In 1987 it was turned into a car-free zone and over the years it became very popular promenade not only amongst locals but also tourists. Nowadays it’s the main pedestrian and shopping zone in Belgrade. It was also named one of the most beautiful pedestrian streets in Southeast Europe.

Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

Where to have a beer in Kneza Mihaila

Since Kneza Mihaila is one of the most visited places in Belgrade, it was easy to guess that bar and restaurant prices are slightly higher here. Luckily, it’s not so hard to find cheaper places. All you need to do is to turn left or right from Kneza Mihaila and choose a bar in the side street. That’s how we found DISTЯIKT U2 bar.

DISTЯIKT U2, Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

DISTЯIKT U2, Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

Lav beer, DISTЯIKT U2, Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

Lav beer, DISTЯIKT U2, Kneza Mihaila street, Belgrade, Serbia

This bar has a nice terrace covered with umbrellas, so you can enjoy your drink outside even if the weather is grey and moody.

Skadarlija is an old bohemian quarter. It’s the second most visited tourist attraction in Belgrade. It has gained popularity in the early 20th century, when well-known, yet poor writers, poets, artists and prominent actors from former Yugoslav countries became regular visitors of Skadarlija. Thanks to them Skadarlija began to acquire its bohemian character.

The area stretches along a short and curved street – Skadarska, which is one of the most famous streets in Belgrade. Here you will find art galleries, antique shops, cafés, bars and eminent restaurants that are offering typical national cuisine. Quite often you’ll see local musicians dressed in traditional Serb costumes playing Balkan brass or folk music.

Skadarlija is a really nice place for an evening walk. Skadarska is noisy and crowded but for some reason it doesn’t feel overcrowded and uncomfortable. Strangely enough, it feels homey and cozy, just like at an old friend’s house.

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

If you decide to visit this beautiful site, then keep in mind that the street is covered with convex cobblestones:

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

That is why I would suggest avoiding wearing high heels. Best choice are comfortable shoes, like sneakers or flats, for example.

 

Where to go in Skadarlija

We made our first beer stop in Gastro Bar 20/44. We chose this place mainly for its funky outlook and interior that has hipster vibes to it.

Gastro Bar 20/44, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Gastro Bar 20/44, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Gastro Bar 20/44, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Gastro Bar 20/44, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Another place that we liked was a cat-friendly Red bar. Great place to relax, have a beer or cocktail and pet a cat in between the drinks.

Red bar, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Red bar, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Red bar, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Where to eat in Skadarlija

In the beginning of 20th century there were few kafanas – so called local bistro which usually served alcohol, coffee and some snacks. And only three kafanas from that time remain: Tri šešira (“Three Hats”), Zlatni bokal (“The Golden Chalice”) and Dva Jelena (“Two Deer”). We decided to have a dinner in the restaurant Dva Jelena.

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

My husband took vešalica – grilled pork back strap loin served with baked potato.

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

I ordered vrat – grilled pork collar steak served with baked potato.

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

Dva Jelena, The Two Deer restaurant, Skadarlija, Belgrade, Serbia

And the Serbian salad, of course, which is usually made from fresh tomatoes, cucumber and cheese. Quite simple but extremely delicious.

Serbian-salad-Dva-Jelena-The Two-Deer-Restaurant-Skadarlija-Belgrade-Serbia

Service and food were good. Only disappointment – my pork was medium rare. And since I’ve been watching cooking show MasterChef Australia for few years now, I knew that two things can never be medium rare: pork and chicken. I complained about the undercooked meat right away, and waiter took it back to the kitchen where the chef cooked it properly.

By the time I got my plate back my husband was already done with his dish. So, we couldn’t enjoy the food together. And that was a bummer. To be completely honest… I was expecting more from this restaurant. But overall it was a nice experience. Although I don’t think we’d come here again.

Hope you enjoyed it!

TWVera

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